Style & Material

At Jewel W, we take pride in offering unparalleled jewellery making and customisation services. Our expertise is backed by years of experience, cutting-edge techniques, and a deep commitment to quality.

16 Types of Gemstone Setting Techniques

1. Prong Setting (Classic)

Prong Setting: Uses metal prongs to secure the gemstone in place on a setting. Each prong holds the gemstone firmly
Types: Prong settings can range from 2 to 8 prongs, with 4 and 6 prongs being the most common.
Advantages: Minimal coverage of the gemstone allows more light to pass through, enhancing its brilliance. It is also easy to clean and suits various hand shapes.
Disadvantages: The prongs can snag on hair or clothing.

2. Bezel Setting (Most Secure)

Bezel Setting: Uses a metal rim to encircle the gemstone below the girdle.
Types: Full bezel and partial bezel, with full bezel being more secure and common.
Advantages: Provides a very secure hold, making the gemstone appear larger and protecting it from damage.
Disadvantages: Larger metal surface area increases cost and reduces light entering the gemstone, affecting its fire.

3. Tension Setting

Tension Setting: The metal exerts inward pressure to hold the gemstone in place.
Advantages: Maximises the gemstone's visibility and brilliance.
Disadvantages: Suitable only for hard gemstones like diamonds, rubies, and sapphires.

4. Channel Setting

Channel Setting: Forms a track or groove with metal, arranging gemstones side by side within the groove.
Advantages: Provides a modern look, making rings shine and appear beautiful.
Disadvantages: External force can cause gemstones to loosen and fall out.

5. Bar Setting

Bar Setting: Uses metal bars to separate and secure gemstones.
Advantages: Gemstones are tightly packed.
Disadvantages: Prongs can snag on hair or clothing.

6. Peg Setting (Best for Pearls)

Peg Setting (Best for Pearls): Drills holes at appropriate points, using adhesive to attach the gemstone to a metal peg on the jewelry setting.
Advantages: Displays the gemstone's three-dimensional shape.
Disadvantages: Visible drill marks in transparent gemstones.

7. Invisible Setting (Highest Craftsmanship)

Invisible Setting: Also known as "mystery setting," this technique involves setting gemstones without visible metal. Originated in Paris in the 1930s, it is exclusive to Van Cleef & Arpels.
Advantages: High surface integrity, showcasing luxurious custom designs and gemstone vibrancy.
Disadvantages: Requires specific cutting, high gemstone wastage, and can only be performed by highly skilled craftsmen.

8. Fish Tail Setting (French Setting)

Fish Tail Setting: Prongs form a V-shape, resembling a fish's tail.
Advantages: Highly decorative, elegant design.
Disadvantages: Difficult to set, with the gemstone's table and girdle aligned at the center.

9. Flush Setting

Flush Setting: Sets the gemstone within thick metal or large surfaces, with the gemstone's side not exposed and encased in a circular metal cup.
Advantages: Simple appearance without prongs.
Disadvantages: Less light refraction, not as brilliant, and stones can fall out easily.

10. Tiger Claw Setting

Tiger Claw Setting: U-shaped slots on the sides, visible from the ring's side.
Advantages: Lightweight, maximally showcases gemstone brilliance.
Disadvantages: Higher cost for small diamonds compared to flush settings.

11. Bead Setting

Bead Setting: Uses small beads on the gemstone edges to secure them.
Advantages: Maximises gemstone coverage, creating a sparkling effect.
Disadvantages: Complex craftsmanship, difficult to set, and can cause gemstone damage.

12. Pave Setting

Pave Setting: Embeds gemstones closely together on the surface.
Advantages: Provides a dazzling, brilliant look.
Disadvantages: Labor-intensive and gemstones can be damaged during setting.

13. Wax Setting

Wax Setting: Sets gemstones on wax before injecting molten metal, commonly used for silver jewellery.
Advantages: Most efficient setting method, lower cost.
Disadvantages: Gemstones must be heat-resistant for wax setting, high requirements for the stones.

14. Fancy Setting

Fancy Setting: Uses components welded together with thematic shapes to secure gemstones.
Advantages: Highly flexible, strong overall design.
Disadvantages: Not suitable for low-hardness gemstones.

15. Wire Setting

Wire Setting: Wraps gemstones with metal wire, often used for round beads or irregularly shaped gemstones. This technique is also popular in artistic and trendy jewelry.
Advantages: Strong craftsmanship, showcasing artisan skill.
Disadvantages: Time-consuming manual work.

16. Snow Setting

Snow Setting: Involves gemstones of varying sizes that need to be closely packed and meticulously adjusted.
Advantages: Natural and lively, embodying high-end customisation.
Disadvantages: Difficult to set prongs, complicated stone matching.

At Jewel W, we are committed to providing high-quality, customized jewelry that meets the highest standards of craftsmanship and material excellence. Partner with us to experience the best in jewelry design and creation.

Gallery

Zirconium Dioxide (ZrO₂)

Zirconia ceramics are a type of advanced high-tech ceramic that boasts a range of beneficial properties, making them highly suitable for jewellery manufacturing and other applications. Here are the key features:

Formula

ZrO₂

Properties

A non-toxic, tasteless white solid. It has sufficient stability in alkaline solutions and many acidic solutions, except for hot concentrated sulfuric acid (H₂SO₄), hydrofluoric acid (HF), and phosphoric acid (H₃PO₄).

Applications

Used in precision ceramics, electronic ceramics, optical lenses, glass additives, fused zirconia bricks, ceramic pigments, glazes, sensors (with CaO and Y₂O₃ additives), synthetic gemstones, refractory materials, and grinding and polishing products.

Customisation

Specific surface area and median particle size can be controlled according to customer requirements.

Zirconia ceramics

High Melting Point

Zirconia has a melting point of 2715°C. Its high melting point and chemical inertness make zirconia an excellent refractory material.

High Hardness and Wear Resistance

Zirconia ceramics have high hardness and good wear resistance. With a Mohs hardness of about 8.5, it is very close to sapphire's hardness of 9. In comparison, polycarbonate has a Mohs hardness of 3.0, tempered glass is 5.5, aluminum-magnesium alloy is 6.0, and Corning glass is 7.0.

Low Thermal Conductivity and Low Thermal Expansion

Zirconia has low thermal conductivity (1.6-2.03W/m.k) and a thermal expansion coefficient similar to metals, making it suitable for structural ceramic materials such as zirconia ceramic components for mobile phones.

Excellent Electrical Properties

Zirconia’s dielectric constant is three times that of sapphire, making it more responsive to signals and ideal for fingerprint recognition patches. As a non-metallic material, zirconia ceramics do not shield electromagnetic signals, ensuring that internal antenna layouts are not affected, which is advantageous in the 5G era.